Temperament is everything when choosing the right dog for work in public places.
Having a predictable, stable dog that never poses a health or safety risk to the public is what separates a pet
from a well trained publicly acceptable assistance dog.
I recommend the book "Understanding Dog Mind" by Bonnie Bergin to help you choose the
dog that is right for you.
Q: I have been told that males are preferable to females, that they're more affectionate and respond better to training but
to put gender second to temperament. I have been placed on 2 breeders waiting lists. Now I have a problem with puppy
selection in regards to what age the pup should ideally be before I make my choice. One breeder wants me to have my pick at
4 weeks. Also I need to know what else to look for in my pup as far as any sound sensitivity testing and other testing that may
be necessary.
A: There is no difference between training male or female dogs unless they have not been spayed or neutered.
Spaying and neutering before 6 months of age will avoid many training issues associated with the male/female training
debate. Being affectionate or not affectionate really comes down to the individual dog's personality type and how
compatible and bonded the dog and owner are.
Before choosing a Golden Retriever or other large breed dog be sure both parents have had their hips and elbows
x-rayed and cleared by a veterinarian. This is very important since many large breeds are known to be at high risk for
hip and elbow problems. You should also be allowed to meet the parents since this will give you an idea of their
temperament and see what their living conditions are like. Reputable breeders breed dogs with good temperaments,
worm their litters and give them their 1st set of shots before releasing the pups. Backyard breeders don't follow any of
the above protocol so buyer beware.
Choosing the right temperament puppy is not easy. There are no guarantees that you will be able to predict future
behaviors based solely on how a puppy seems to be at a certain age. But there are things you can observe when trying
to find the puppy that is right for you. If you were looking for a search and rescue or protection dog, you would choose
the high aroused, confident, risk taking, independent, curious pup with a high play drive and interest in people. When
choosing a service dog however, the opposite is true. While you need a dog that enjoys being with people, you also
need a partner that is more of a submissive follower with an even temperament that is not too high or not too low
aroused for the job.
Amiable personality types tend to work well as service dogs because they are easy going and easier to influence and
train. They fall in the middle of the spectrum between being too independent and aroused or being too submissive and
fearful. When choosing a dog or puppy for work as a service dog you need to have a low to medium aroused dog that is
submissive enough to follow but not so submissive that it appears uncomfortable or scared working in high stress
environments.
A dog's body movements and vocalizations are EXACTLY like ours. The are meant to convey clear communication in
either signal or audible form. It is their language. And just like any other foreign language you must learn how to
understand it if you are to communicate with those who speak it. So here are the basics of what you should look for in
both adult dogs and puppies:
#1.) BODY LANGUAGE: When choosing a dog or puppy, look for body language that conveys a relaxed, easy going
energy. Submissive personality types tend to approach with ears drawn back slightly, and a wagging tail that is NOT held
higher then it's own rump and NOT held lower then it's back legs. In other words, a tail held high in the air or held high
and slightly curved over the dog's back will most likely be a dog or puppy that is too independent and outgoing to easily
train for service dog work. And a dog or puppy who keeps it's tail so low that it tucks or almost tucks between its legs
when being greeted is most likely too sensitive and submissive to handle the challenges or being a service dog.
NOTE: Do not test the pups in or near their whelping area. Use a different room or place.
Take them to an unfamiliar area for these tests. This will bring out their true self outside of their comfort zone.
You can test the puppies by first observing the litter playing together with toys for about 10 minutes. Watch how they
interact and play to get an idea of who's tails are held high, medium (not higher then it's own rump & not lower then it's
back legs) or tucked. Also observe which puppies play assertively and which ones tend to be more submissive in the
litter. After observing them, start interacting with them all together with a calm energy so not to over excite them. See
who the pushy ones are who rally for your attention first and who waits his/her turn or is a little less pushy then the
others. If a puppy stays back and does not participate, that pup could be too submissive for the job. Weed out the pups
that are the most high aroused and who's tails are carried high as well as the pups who are too shy and hold their tails
very low or tucked. Four weeks old is a bit young to choose. Six to eight weeks would be better. So if you choose one at
four weeks, retest it again at six or eight weeks if you can.
Once you have narrowed down your choices, start testing your top picks alone individually. Hold the puppy in your
arms on it's back like a baby to see if it surrenders and relaxes in your arms or if it gets stiff and/or fights to right itself.
Choose a puppy that stays relaxed and enjoys being touched all over. Next, without communicating with the puppy, test
the pup to see if it will follow you as you leave the room (no one should be in the room). If it doesn't follow you, stay out
of sight for a minute (leaving puppy all alone) to see if the puppy cries, barks or just starts exploring around as if you
were never there. Choose the puppy that comes to find you without barking and whining or that follows you when you
leave. The pup should use it's nose to look for you.
#2.) SOUND SENSITIVITY: Using a floor with no carpet, just a hard surface, test one puppy at a time by squeaking a
squeaky toy. How attracted is the puppy to the sound? Next, while you are playing with the puppy introduce a treat. How
aroused does the puppy get when food is introduced? Give the puppy the treat then have someone drop a small metal
pan lid on the floor at least 6 feet away from the puppy and where the puppy can see it on the floor. Do not react to the
puppy's response. Just observe the dog's reaction. A good response would be curiosity. If the puppy startles then
becomes curious and wanting to see or smell what made the sound then that is a good response. If the puppy wants
nothing to do with whatever made the sound and appears fearful and disturbed then this puppy might be too sound
sensitive for the job. You are looking for the pup or dog that can bounce back or recover quickly from whatever
startled it and without fearing it again in the future.
#3.) REACTION TO NEW STIMULI: Have someone place an open umbrella on the floor in another room where the
puppy or dog can't see it and put a couple of dog toys and a few treats near it. Have the puppy follow you into the room
and don't communicate with it. Just observe it's reaction to the umbrella when he/she first sees it.
If the dog or puppy shows an interest in it and wants to sniff it or simply acts like it's no problem then this is a good sign.
If a dog or puppy won't approach it or barks at it and acts uncomfortable this is not desirable.
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